Discover Balandra Beach & El Hongo: La Paz's Best Beach & Iconic Mushroom Rock - Paradise Awaits! - La Paz Purple Travel Guide

(map, reviews)

When envisioning the quintessential Baja California Sur beach, images of Playa Balandra immediately spring to mind. Located 30 min, or about 17 miles (27 km) north of La Paz, this stunning natural bay is consistently ranked among Mexico's most beautiful beaches, famous for its impossibly calm, shallow turquoise waters and, of course, its whimsical ‘Mushroom Rock’ formation, locally known as El Hongo.

El Hongo: Nature's Masterpiece, Tested by Time (and Tourists)

The iconic El Hongo is not a man-made attraction, but rather a remarkable testament to the power of nature. This unique, mushroom-shaped rock formation is the result of differential erosion over millions of years. The constant action of wind, waves, and rainwater has sculpted this peculiar figure. The upper part of the rock, being more resistant to erosion, has remained largely intact, while the softer base has gradually worn away, creating the distinctive ‘stem’ and ‘cap’ that resembles a giant mushroom emerging from the water.
It has become a beloved symbol of La Paz and the natural beauty of the peninsula. However, its popularity has also led to unfortunate incidents. In 1989, a tourist climbed on the delicate rock formation, causing its top to break off. This act of vandalism sparked outrage and initiated a prolonged restoration effort that began in 1993. Engineers and authorities worked painstakingly to reinforce the stem and lift the multi-ton rock back into place, a testament to the community's dedication to preserving this natural icon. Despite these efforts, the rock remains vulnerable, and ongoing concerns about its stability mean that climbing on El Hongo is strictly prohibited to protect its delicate structure and ensure its longevity for future generations.

A Protected Natural Wonderland:

Playa Balandra's exceptional beauty and ecological significance led to its designation as a Protected Area of Flora and Fauna in 2012. This vital conservation status ensures the preservation of its fragile ecosystem, which includes not only the pristine beaches and unique rock formations but also a crucial mangrove system. These resilient trees act as nurseries for marine life, provide habitat for numerous bird species, and play a critical role in preventing erosion and filtering water. Exploring the mangroves by kayak or paddleboard is a unique way to experience this vital part of the bay.

Here at Backpack and Snorkel Travel Guides, we typically promote self-guided walking tours.
But we realize that not everybody likes to walk by themselves in a foreign city. So, just in case that you rather go with ab guide: NO PROBLEM! Please see the Viator tours below.

Experiencing Balandra: Tips for Your Visit

Due to its immense popularity and protected status, visiting Playa Balandra comes with specific guidelines to ensure its preservation and a pleasant experience for everyone:

• Limited Capacity & Timed Entry: To manage visitor impact, Balandra operates with a strict capacity limit of 450 people per shift. There are typically two entry times: 8:00 AM to 12:00 PM and 1:00 PM to 5:00 PM. It is highly recommended to arrive early (30-60 minutes before opening) to secure your spot, especially during peak seasons or on weekends.
  To make matters worse, the small parking lot has limited capacity. Officially, it has space for 80 cars, but since some people don’t know how to park, or because multiple spots are taken by RVs, the parking lot effectively has a lower capacity.

• ‘Digital Bracelets’: For years, there is a talk about Digital Bracelets that you need to obtain from the CONANP (Mexico's National Commission of Protected Natural Areas) website to enter Balandra Beach. As of the time of writing, mid-2025, that is not true.

• No Facilities: Unlike many commercial beaches, Balandra has very limited facilities. There are no permanent restaurants or vendors. Pack plenty of food, water, and anything else you might need, including shade (a beach umbrella or beach tent). The few (<15) existing palapas get occupied fast.

• Activities: The calm, shallow waters are perfect for swimming, wading, stand-up paddleboarding, and kayaking. You can wade across much of the bay. There is some snorkeling by the rocks in the south western part of the bay. Some people report seeing fish and turtles in the sandy bottom areas at high tide while snorkeling during the calmer months (May-November), but in our experience, this is pure luck.

• Hiking Opportunities: Several trails around the bay offer panoramic views of Balandra's multiple coves, the contrasting desert landscape, and the sparkling Sea of Cortez. Right after the entrance to your right is a trail that leads up the hill to some beautiful vista points of Balandra Beach. Wear appropriate footwear and bring water, especially if hiking during warmer hours.

• Conservation Rules: As a protected area, visitors are expected to follow strict rules: no disposable plastics, no drones, no motorized boats (unless licensed tour boats), no fishing, no touching corals, no smoking, and no walking on dunes. Pets are allowed only on the main beach and must be leashed. ‘Leave no trace’ is paramount – pack out everything you pack in.

• Connectivity: Be aware that mobile phone signal and data coverage are generally non-existent at Balandra.

Map of Balandra Beach

Here is a map of Balandra Beach:

Sandy Beach Areas of Balandra Beach

Balandra Beach has two sandy beach areas (#4 on the map). The beach near the parking lot has <15 palapas – they are almost the only place that provides shade.
Depending on the time of day, there is a little shade near the rocks by the second beach (4) in the west.

Where to swim at Balandra Beach

Balandra Bay is shallow. You will need to walk in the water quite a bit westwards to find water that is deep enough to swim for an adult. At low tide, you will need to walk almost as far out as El Hongo, of to the rocks in the southwestern part of Balandra Bay (#6 on the map) where you can also snorkel. Just be advised that there are motor boats in this area, so make sure that you stay visible to the boats e.g. by using an orange buoy.

Zone Profunda (#8 on the map) is an area that is deep enough to swim in during low tide, but the water is usually hazy.

El Hongo / Mushroom Rock at Balandra Beach

El Hongo / Mushroom Rock (#5 on the map) cannot be seen from the parking lot, or the beach near the parking lot. If you want to get close and touch El Hongo / Mushroom Rock, you will need to walk over a rocky area around the Mushroom Rock. It is advised to wear water shoes. The shortest path is to get there not from the water, but from the beach area.

Sendero Norte trail to Mirador (Balandra Bay Vista Points) at Balandra Beach

Sendero Norte trail to Mirador (Balandra Bay Vista Points) (2) is a short but steep trail that starts shortly after the entrance gate on the right. Park your car and walk there from the parking lot.

It is advised to have sport shoes or other tight-fitting shoes. While quite a few people go to the first vista point with slippers, be advised that this is dangerous.
After the first vista point the trail gets real narrow and wearing anything but tight-fitting shoes is an accident waiting to happen.

Where to rent equipment for paddle boarding or kayaking at Balandra Beach

If you want to do paddle boarding or kayaking, you can rent equipment from the white van in the parking lot.

Snorkeling at Balandra Beach

There is some snorkeling by the rocks in the south western part of the bay - #6 on the map. Just be advised that there are motor boats in this area, so make sure that you stay visible to the boats e.g. by using an orange buoy.

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Author: Rudy at Backpack and Snorkel

Bio: Owner of Backpack and Snorkel Travel Guides. We create in-depth guides to help you plan unforgettable vacations around the world.

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