Travel Guide for a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Galway and Trip to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands - Backpack and Snorkel Ireland Purple Travel Guide
Today we will do a Self-Guided Walking Tour of Galway and see the sunset on Inis Mór in the Aran Islands. We provide detailed information and the best things to see and we show lots of photos so you know what you can expect.
Galway can be easily explored by foot on a self-guided walking tour of Galway. SHortlay after noon we will drive to Rossaveel Harbour where we will take the ferry to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands.
On the island, we will watch the meadows change colors during sunset over the ocean.
1 = Galway
2 = Rossaveel Harbour
3 = Inis Mór Harbor
4 = Inis Mór
Here at Backpack and Snorkel Travel Guides, we typically promote self-guided walking tours.
But we realize that not everybody likes to walk by themselves in a foreign city. So, just in case that you rather go with ab guide: NO PROBLEM! Please see the tours below.
Table of contents
Self-Guided Walking Tour of Galway
With a population of 86,000 people, Galway is the largest city in Ireland’s Connacht province.
The city grew around a fortification that was built here in 1124. Today, the city is home to historic buildings, churches, city gates and cemeteries that can be visited.
Beside the historic charm, Galway has contemporary honors to be proud of:
- in 2018 Galway was named European Region of Gastronomy
- in 2020, Galway was named European Capital of Culture
On our self-guided tour of Galway, we will explore the major sites of the downtown area.
1 = Eyre Square
2 = The Hardiman
3 = Spanish Arch
4 = Quay St
A = Kirwan's Ln
B = Saint Nicholas' Collegiate Church
5 = Lynch Memorial Window
6 = Shop St
7 = Lynch's Castle
8 = Courthouse Square
9 = Salmon Weir Bridge
10 = Galway Cathedral
C = Quadrangle
Here at Backpack and Snorkel Travel Guides, we typically promote self-guided walking tours.
But we realize that not everybody likes to walk by themselves in a foreign city. So, just in case that you rather go with ab guide: NO PROBLEM! Please see the free GuruWalk tours below.
Eyre Square
Located close to the Galway train station, next to busy bus stops, and surrounded on three sides by busy streets and a pedestrian street on the 4th side, the rectangular Eyre Square is located in a busy place in Galway.
Luckily, you can escape all the hectic by walking closer to the much more serene grass and tree-covered center of the park.
What is now Eyre Square was an open space in front of a town gate in medieval times. It was called the Green and part of it was used as a market space.
In 1631, a wooden fence was built around it and some ash trees were planted. In 1710, the city under Mayor Edward Eyre took it over.
Over the years, the park was redesigned several times within its original borders – the last redevelopment took place from 2004 – 2006.
In 1965, US President John F. Kennedy became the first sitting US president to give a speech here and the square was renamed John F. Kennedy Memorial Park in his honor.
The name, however, has not stuck.
In the northern part of the park you can find the Browne Doorway and the Quincentennial Fountain.
The Browne Doorway is the former entrance to the Browne house of 1627, a wealthy merchant family of Galway in the 16th and 17th centuries, and one of the Tribes of Galway. The Tribes of Galway were a group of 14 Anglo-Norman families that dominated the political, economic, and social life in Galway for over two centuries.
The doorway is a fine example of Italian influenced Renaissance architecture.
Below the window is a Latin inscription from Psalm 127:1. It reads: Nisi Dominus aedificaverit domum, in vanum laboraverunt, qui aedificant eam - If the Lord does not build a house, then those who build it work in vain.
The Quincentennial Fountain takes its shape from the sails of the traditional hooker boats that were used for fishing in Galway Bay.
The Hardiman
The Hardiman is a 4-star hotel that opened 1852 under the name Railway Hotel, making it the oldest hotel in Galway.
Peek into this hotel for its elegant design and then continue on your self-guided walking tour of Galway.
Spanish Arch
Galway’s city wall had an extension that reached all the way to the bank of the River Corrib to protect the quays.
In the 18th century a new road was built as an extension of the quays. The new road still exists today under the same name: The Long Walk. To get through to the other side of the wall, arches were created.
The Spanish Arch is one of them, even though the designation Spanish was not used at that time. It appears that the arch was likely called the Eyre Arch, as the Eyre family built The Long Walk quays extension.
In 1755, a strong earthquake Lisbon caused a tsunami that partially destroyed the arch.
Quay Street
Starting at the Seattle Stone and ending at High Street, Quay Street is Galway’s very popular amusement street with lots of pubs and souvenir stores.
The Seattle Stone has a hole at the top that is drilled in an angle. So, if you stick your finger into the hole and someone does the same in Seattle (USA), then both fingers will point directly at each other 7178 km (4460 miles) apart.
At its northern end, Quay Street changes names and becomes High Street. On high street is The Kings Head pub, which is located in a building that dates back to the 13th century. Its fireplace that you can still see is from 1612 and the Marriage Stone above the Fireplace in the middle bar is from 1784.
After King Charles I was executed in 1649, Oliver Cromwell’s army sent his army to conquer Ireland.
In 1653, Galway surrendered to Cromwell’s confidante Colonel Stubbers whose army sacked the city and mistreated the population. The mayor objected and was forcibly removed from office in 1654 and his house (now The Kings Head) on High Street was seized.
The name Kings Head comes from the fact that the executioner for the City of London refused to execute Charles I and another executioner had to be found. When a neighbor was bragging about executing the king and he given the house, rumors started that this was his payment. Keep in mind, executioners wore a mask, so nobody would know for sure who did it.
Thus, the name The Kings Head.
Even at that time, there were some doubts about the truth and recent research has uncovered evidence that the executioner was Stubbers.
Kirwan's Lane
At the northern end of Quay Street, when it changes its name to High Street, turn left onto Cross Street Upper and take the first left into Kirwan’s Lane. It is one the finest medieval laneways in Galway and it contains many buildings from the 16th and 17th century.
It is named after the Kirwan’s, who were one of the 14 tribes that ruled Galway for several centuries.
When you are done exploring, return to Cross Street Upper and continue your self-guided walking tour of Galway.
Saint Nicholas' Collegiate Church
Founded in 1320, and dedicated to Saint Nicholas of Myra, the patron saint of seafarers, the church was not just used for religious purposes, but also used by the 14 Tribes of Galway for the triennial elections of the mayor and city council.
In a side chapel, there is a tomb of a crusader.
In 1477, Christopher Columbus worshipped here when he visited Galway.
In 1652, Cromwellian defaced all but one of the angels in the church for being icons while they were there. The only one that remains is now called the Smug Angel.
In 2002, the first public blessing for a same-sex couple in an Irish church took place here.
Lynch Memorial Window
The Lynch family was one of the 14 Tribes of Galway. Several family members were mayors of Galway.
In 1493 Walter Lynch, the son of Galway’s mayor James Lynch FitzStephen, was sentenced to death for of the murder of a Spanish merchant sailor who had shown interest in his girlfriend.
One version of the legend states that nobody wanted to carry out Walter’s execution. So, James Lynch FitzStephen took it upon himself to hang his son from the window of his home on Lombard Street. He then retired from his position and nothing more is known about him.
Some people claim that the word Lynching comes from this event, but this is not true.
This memorial was built to commemorate this legend, but there are indications that this event may not have happened at all.
Anyway, the memorial facade that you see today was built in the 19th century containing late 15th and early 17th century architectural features, including a Gothic doorway. It also includes a skull and crossbones below the large window that is said to be the window from which Walter was hanged. It was taken from the original mayor’s house on Lombard Street.
Shop Street
At the northern end of High Street, the name changes to Shop Street. Shop Street is a (mostly) pedestrian street and Galway's main shopping street.
You will find lots of stores, restaurants, and street performers here, and also a couple of murals.
Lynch's Castle
Nowadays, the former Lynch’s Castle houses the AIB bank.
Lynch’s Castle is a good example of a medieval fortified house that was built as a protection from raids by the Lynch family, who was one of the 14 Tribes of Galway.
This four-story building has embellished carved windows, gargoyles, ornamental moldings, and cornices.
Much of what you see today was built in the 16th century, but some parts of the building date back to the 14th century. Later additions are from 1808 and the carved doorway was added in 1933.
The Lynch coat of arms as well as the coats of arms of Henry VII and the Fitzgerald’s of Kildare can be seen on the front of the building.
Courthouse Square
The courthouse has a beautiful façade that is obscured by a large tree.
After the original courthouse burned down, construction of this courthouse started in 1812, and it was inaugurated in 1815.
Salmon Weir Bridge
The Salmon Weir Bridge is the oldest still existing bridge that crosses the River Corrib. Ot was built in 1818 to allow direct travel between the courthouse and the new prison (goal). The new prison was built as the old prison, which was located on the same street as the courthouse, was too small.
From May through September, you can see shoals of salmon swim upriver to spawn.
Next to the historic Salmon Weir Bridge is the new Salmon Weir Pedestrian and Cycle Bridge that was opened in 2023.
Galway Cathedral
Galway Cathedral is the short name of the Cathedral of Our Lady Assumed into Heaven and St Nicholas.
It was built from 1958 until 1965 on the site of the old city prison.
Before the prison, there was a parish chapel on this site that was built around 1750 and replaced with a limestone church in Gothic style, and dedicated to St. Patrick, in 1821.
The cathedral is called the Last Stone Public Building in Ireland, as it was constructed almost completely of local limestone.
The Cathedral is usually open from 08:30 until 18:30 - these times are approximate. On certain days, such as Christmas day, the Cathedral may close earlier.
Quadrangle
If you still have time before you head to Rossaveel Harbour for your ferry ride to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands, then take the short walk to the Quadrangle.
The Quadrangle, or the Quad for short, is the most iconic building at the University of Galway. It was built in Tudor Gothic style out of local limestone, and modelled after Christ Church, one of the colleges at the University of Oxford.
When the University of Galway opened its doors to 68 students in 1849 as one of the three Queen’s Colleges in Ireland, together with Cork and Belfast, the Quad was the only building of the University.
The original faculties were Arts, Medicine, and Law. Starting in the late 19th century, the University welcomed female students and in 1906, Alice Perry, became the first woman in the world to graduate from the University of Galway with a first-class honors degree in civil engineering.
Today, the Quad is used for administrative purposes, official receptions, and events throughout the year.
When you get there you may see a professional photographer take wedding photos of a newly married couple, as this is a favorite wedding photography spot in Galway.
Rossaveel Harbour
Since you have a rental car, it is best to drive to Rossaveel Harbour. Another option is to buy a bus transfer from Galway to the harbor. But since we will not come back to Galway, we propose that you drive.
The drive should take 45min to 1h, depending on where in Galway you start and how heavy the traffic is.
There is a long-term parking lot at the harbor where you can leave your rental car – at the time of writing, parking is Euro 7 for 24 hours. The ferry does not transport cars.
Once you have parked your car, go to the Ferry Office to get your boarding passes that you have reserved online. More about the Aran Islands Ferry below.
Aran Islands Ferry
The Aran Islands Ferry has multiple connections between Rossaveel Harbour and Inis Mór and the other Aran Islands per day. The frequency and departure times depend on the time of year.
The ferry operators advise you to book your tickets in advance as the ferry can sell out between April and October. Parking is plentiful and cannot be prebooked.
Be advised that there are other ferries that depart from Rossaveel Harbour, so make sure that you go to the right dock. At the time of writing, the ferry departed from Gate 2 and there was a big yellow sign telling you that the ferry to Inis Mór departs from Gate 2.
Where to stay on Inis Mór in the Aran Islands
Inis Mór or Inishmore is pronounced: Ennish Mohr and means Big Island. In Irish, it is Árainn or Árainn Mhór, pronounced: Ahrinn Mohr, which means Kidney-Shaped or Ridge.
Inis Mór is the largest of the Aran Islands. Its population is around 800 people, but it typically drops to about 300 during the winter months.
The island only has a few bed and breakfast establishments, which often book out months ahead of the high season, as the Aran Islands are a popular tourist destination. So, our advice is to book several months in advance if you come during the high season.
When coming in June, we found that our hotel was fully booked the day we arrived, but a day later, we were the only guests. So, if your hotel is booked on the days you plan to arrive, just changing your dates by 1 or 2 days could make a big difference.
Here is the accommodation that is available when you visit:
Aran Walkers Lodge (book)
Most accommodations on the Aran Islands are pretty rustic. Aran Walkers Lodge has cozy warm rooms that resemble more like a private Bed and Breakfast. And that is good.
Some rooms have shared bathrooms and some have private bathrooms.
The staff is super friendly and, with the friendly atmosphere on the island, you feel more like being welcomed in a big family than a sterile hotel.
Breakfast is tasty and served, and some items are self-serve.
As this is one of the best accommodations on the island, it is advisable to book months in advance if you come during high season.
We came in June, and we found that our hotel was fully booked the day we arrived, but a day later, we were the only guests. So, if you find that the hotel is booked during the days you plan to come, try changing your dates by 1 or 2 days and see if there is any vacancy.
The hotel is located near several major attractions on Inis Mór and you can rent a bicycle from the hotel to get around, or you can book a guided tour in advance. We got the bicycles for free.
Aran Walkers Lodge is located far away from the harbor. You will need to catch a taxi there - we paid Euro 10 for the ride as we shared it with others, but we understand that the ride is typically Euro 25 for two for the same ride.
Interestingly, this was the only taxi that was available and if we had not asked, we would have likely been out of luck. Therefore, make sure to have a phone or data plan for Ireland when you come to Inis Mór.
On our departure day, the hotel gave us the business card for Mike who operates a taxi and asked us to contact him the night before. We contacted him by WhatsApp (+353-87-1941838) as we could not him by phone. And the next day we paid Euro 25 for the transfer to the harbor.
Sunset in Inis Mór
Once you have checked into your hotel, it is time for some sightseeing.
Chances are that it is close to sunset by now, so a short walk outside may be the best thing to do before you get back to your hotel for the evening.
Be advised that, if you stay at Aran Walkers Lodge, there is no restaurant close by and dinner is not served in the lodge. So, you want to bring dinner with you or use a taxi to get back to town.
We brought bread, sliced sausages, and cheese with us so that we could eat sandwiches in the evenings and we had our hotel, Aran Walkers Lodge, store them in the fridge in their kitchen – there are no refrigerators in the rooms.
Should you stay at Aran Walkers Lodge, then it is only 10min to Kilmurvey Beach where you should be able to see a wonderful sunset.
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